If I was to count the number of showcase Cabernet Sauvignons in the Napa/Sonoma winemaking district on one hand, Silver Oak Cellars would be included. Silver Oak has wineries in Napa and Sonoma.

Oakville is home to the estate-grown cabs of Napa where the current Silver Oak ’03 has been released after having been aged in American Oak for some 28 months and it is a “drink now” delight, but will age gracefully, rounding out the tannins for up to a decade.

On the other side of this dynamic duo wine country is Silver Oak’s Alexander Valley Sonoma Winery near Geyserville, where the ’04 Cabs have just been released.

A little softer, darker and drawn from three estate vineyards with a blend of lovely characteristics, these wines mature in 50 percent new and 50 percent once-filled American oak barrels for up to 26 months, then settle in 15 more months of bottle aging. Winemaker Daniel Baron made his mark in the vineyards of Bordeaux, where he learned about no-compromise excellence. “In the old world, the pursuit of excellence is the driving force behind every decision made in the vineyard. That’s what I strive for as a winemaker,” he said.

It was with an exciting expectancy that I popped into the recent new release party for Silver Oak’s latest cabernet triumphs at Carlsbad Wine Merchants, where Regional Sales Manager Julie McCulley was pouring the new releases. My first taste was the Alexander Valley ’04. The entry was a velvety rush of immense fruit filling the palate with great depth of flavor. Its finish is long and elegant. Price at the date of this event was $62.99 a bottle.

The ’03 Napa Valley version rewarded tasters with a distinguished yet bold flavor of concentrated fruit, with a rich chocolate accent. A fringe benefit was a brown sugar hint that I look for in an upscale cab. Price at the event was $89.99 a bottle.

Bravo to Silver Oak, one of the few wineries that produce only Cabernet Sauvignon, with a devoted following that knows great value. Read more at www.silveroak.com.

Other quality new wines

— Robert Renzoni Vineyards Temecula-2006 Concerto, $36. Excellent sonnet of black berry mouthfeel, with eucalyptus and other surprise accents. Aged 20 months in American and French oak. A blend of mostly Zindanfel with some Syrah and Merlot. Visit robertrenzonivineyards.com.

— Orfila Vineyards San Pasqual Valley-2007 Hibiscus Rose of Syrah, $18. Estate grown, with a beautiful collage of refreshing flavors of citrus. Serve chilled. Perfect for a summer garden party. Visit www.orfila.com.

— Pedroncelli Dry Creek Sonoma Zinfandel Mother Clone – 2006, $15. Old Vine concentrated Zin flavor of blackberry, zipped up with a pepper and spice accent. A heritage of making wine since 1927. Visit www.pedroncelli .com.

— Erath Vineyards, Dundee Oregon – 2006 Pinot Noir, $14. High quality from one of the highest points in Oregon, home of magnificent Pinot. Visit www.erath.com.

The Local Sip

— Vivace in the Four Seasons Aviara Carlsbad has a wine dinner featuring Angela Mac33ulan of Maculan Winery in the Venetian area of Italy at 6:30 p.m. Sept. 8. Vivace Chef Bryant Wigger will create a five-course Venetian dinner to compliment the wines poured. Cost is $140 per person. Call (760) 603-6955 for details.

— SummerBash 2008 happens at Humphreys by the Bay in San Diego on Shelter Island from 6 to 10 p.m. Sept. 10. More than 20 area restaurants will offer their specialties followed by a rock concert by the Steely Damned. Produced by the San Diego Country Restaurant Association. Tickets are $20 each. Call (619) 297-8200 for details.

— Thornton Winery in Temecula continues its exceptional series of jazz concerts with Ottmar Liebert and Luna Negra at 4 p.m. Sept. 14. General admission is $55. Supper Package is $125. For all the details go to www.thorntonwine.com, or call (951) 699-3021.

— The Grand Del Mar resort is the location for the fifth annual Harvest For Hope, a wine and gourmet food benefit event from 1 to 5 p.m. Sept. 14. Regal Wines is donating a lovely wine sampling of their portfolio and more than 20 upscale restaurants will be serving. The cost is $150 per ticket. See www.ENFHope.org or call (619) 944-1732 for details.

— Over in Palm Desert, Aqua Caliente’s The Steakhouse is busy with great wine dinners: Sept. 9 Robert Mondavi, Sept. 16 Fess Parker, Sept. 23 Zaca Mesa and Sept. 30 Rodney Strong. Call for prices and details at (760) 202-6063.